Milestone Buttress Traverse and Continuation
These two excellent scrambles can be done separately, but it’s natural to combine them.
It’s a very short walk from the first to the second & if you’re roped up, you can just coil the rope and move together. Confident climbers may do them unroped, but I’d strongly advise doing them roped up and in pitches. Both involve some Diff climbing moves.
Milestone Buttress Traverse (Milestone Approach) Start at the gate in the lay-by just on the west side of Tryfan’s north ridge. Take the steps and path as if heading for the north ridge. This follows a large dry stone wall, taking you towards the Milestone Buttress, which is a few hundred metres up directly ahead. Take either of the stiles over the wall and clamber over large boulders towards the west-facing & most popular part of the buttress for rock climbers.
Walk up steeply until you reach the far top right corner of the buttress (from here, the continuing loose path takes you up to Milestone Gully just above). The scramble starts up the smooth and polished slabs (the first pitch of the Pulpit climb). These can also be avoided on the right, but if you feel inclined to avoid them, it’s probably better not to continue! Move left under the lowest part of the Pulpit itself (it’s a sort of triple-decker pulpit – three huge boulders resting on each other) and belay.
Continue on a rising traverse left, surmounting a huge exposed flake by using the top edge for handholds (and sling protection). Anchor on the ledge above (this is part of the Rowan Tree route). Ahead, still going in the general direction of the traverse, is a difficult looking step, a short but vertical and rather hold-less wall. The key is to swing boldly around the left edge of this (very exposed) where adequate hand and foot-holds will be found. Continue traversing onto the very large ledge / alcove above.
To the left is a smooth and difficult chimney (final pitch of Direct Route). To the right is an easy chimney with spikes – ascend this and the short wall directly ahead to finish the scramble.