A relatively short but extremely worthwhile scramble on the east face of Tryfan, combining tricky moves and fantastic exposure on a route where escape is always an option and topping out leaves you with the best of the North Ridge as a bonus. I would not agree with Ashton's verdict on the route conditions.

Though there is a lack of traffic the route is not as lichenous as suggested. Only in the upper sections, notably on the shadier sides of obstacles, does lichen and moss become an issue, and then not a considerable one. On a dry day the rock is as sound as most on Tryfan, and then any lichen is an advantage! From Heather Terrace locate Bastow Gully, the first on the east face, deep and narrow and floored with large stones. Head up the gully for 10m or so to a slanting break on the right. A toe-jam on the right wall helps overcome the 1st chockstone and from there continue to a narrow break, using this and another to traverse the face with superb exposure to gain a heather ledge on the ridge crest.

Alternately these initial difficulties can be avoided by taking a second break from a few metres further up the gully and join the route above the first rise. Throughout the route all the main difficulties can be avoided with easier scrambling, usually on the right, and at various points escape back into the gully is possible. Short obstacles and some heather-bashing leads on to the next major obstacle. A rib on the left is too hard and the central blocky heather runnel too easy, so just like Goldilocks take the option that's just right and ascend the ridge on the right via a diagonal break to a ledge on the crest. Continue up the rib, slightly on the left for the best option before aiming left over heather and boulders to gain the left-hand rib above it's harder section where possible.

This section is daunting as it's narrow and directly overlooks Bastow Gully. Take it with confidence on narrow holds and soon the crest starts to widen. Continue up the rib keeping as close to the crest as possible, overcoming numerous difficulties. Towards the top an obvious escape into Bastow Gully can be made as it peters out. If still following the route a difficult direct line can push you further round to the right behind the rib for more accommodating options. However these are still tricky and involve the most intricate moves of the route.

A tight and damp corner, with an overhanging boulder on the left leads to another slightly easier one before returning to the crest. From here continue up more easily and freely until you reach the large platform below the Nose on the North Ridge.