entertaining scramble, apart from one awkward move (the infamous chockstone), which in my view puts the grade slightly higher than that given in the Ashton guide. The rock is clean and sound and the route doesn't carry too much drainage.

It dries fairly quickly and even when moderately wet this doesn't interfere too much with the scramble. Make your way into Cwm Bochlwyd from where you will be able to see the unmistakeable triangular form of Alphabet Slab at the bottom middle of the cliffs. Make your way to the back of the lake and head toward the left hand side of the slab (there is a vague path).

After overcoming a tight initial step continue up a short scree chute to a ledge above the slab. The shallow depression of Main Gully now looms above. Head upward on large blocky holds for 30 metres or so until the gully narrows then on till just below the chockstone. This is surprisingly tricky to overcome. Launch up on a small flake in a crack and pull up into a hole below the chockstone, taking care not to smack your head! Once upright you have two choices - an awkward pull between the chockstone and a smooth slab on the left (it's quite tight and feet placement is the big problem) or an exposed step round to the left. The hand holds are there but do you have the reach?!

Once this is overcome it's grass ledges until the next rock step looms (or a visit to the Chasm Face, which now rises on the left). The next step is a couple of stepped cracks within a steep slot, but fairly easy. It's tight so when necessary venture outside on ledges and big flakes. Above this the route starts to open out and you can go right or left - right is easier, and drier, and you now emerge near the top of Main Gully Ridge.

Head left on to the open slope above the Chasm Face and now head up over very enjoyable short steps and boulders and on to the summit plateau near the cantilever.